Leh

The wonders of modern technology and patience. I have just booked online, an air ticket from Leh to Katmandu on the 5th. It leaves around midday with a day layover in Delhi. The best part is the price. It is around the cost of travelling over land, but a darn sight more comfortable and convenient. I must admit, I had almost given up hope of a good airfare on my budget. I was resigned to travelling to Delhi by bus. Air tickets go up dramatically from Leh, at this time of year.

This stoke of good fortune has left me in a good mood. Now there is no need to organise and psych myself up for 2 long bus journeys, returning the way I came. And flying will give me another chance to see the glorious Himalayan mountains from above.

This 2 months in India have gone quickly. I guess this has something to do with the surroundings. Manali and Leh are places where the high mountain scenery kind of captures you in awe, every time your eyes gaze around outside. Leh especially, with desert features and snow capped mountains in the distance. Ladakh can be a rocky and austere landscape full of ancient royal palaces and Buddhist monasteries. On top of the world, it is like living in another world. Buddhist pray flags everywhere you look. A great place to experience other cultures, in a unique high altitude desert.

At this time of year, the temperature can get into the mid 20's during the day. It is comfortably warm, even hot in the direct sun. But this comfort is temporary, if you were to stick it out in Leh for a year. In the winter, snow lingers because of the cold and everything freezes. At 3500 meters, only the brave stay around or visit. Most hotels and restaurants close. The use of solar energy is widespread here, but only goes so far. There is virtually no heating here in winter due to lack of wood and the high cost of fuel. Power cuts out for days, even weeks at a time. In January, temperatures drop to an average of -8.6.C. Max around -3C and min around -14.2C. Unless you enjoy the cold and wearing several layers of clothing 24 hours a day. Going without bathing throughout your stay because water is at a premium. Basic food. Ladakh in winter is only for the brave.

But the rewards are high. Much lower tourist numbers. More adventurous and challenging treks over frozen glacial rivers. Stunning winter views of the surrounding frozen landscapes...A chance to get to know the locals when they are more relaxed and have nothing else to do.